At the far south of Ilhabela, protected by 12 km of forest trail, lives a caiçara community that chose its own pace: Bonete, a fishing village with sand streets, limited electricity, colorful canoes — and a beach with perfect waves that has already been ranked among the ten most beautiful in Brazil.
Getting there: trail or boat
- The trail (the pilgrimage): about 12 km / 4 hours from Ponta da Sepituba, crossing streams, waterfalls (a swim in the Areado is a rite of passage) and dense forest. Moderate to intense effort — and every step is worth it.
- Boat/speedboat (the shortcut): about 30-40 minutes from Feiticeira or Sepituba (R$ 100-150 each way), subject to open-sea conditions — it is common to go by boat and come back on the trail (or the other way round).
The village
In Bonete the clock runs differently: fish roasted in a banana leaf, children playing football on the sand, a generator that switches off early and a starry sky loud enough to hear. Simple guesthouses and local families’ houses take in those who stay the night — and staying the night is the secret: the whole village changes when the day-trippers leave. Surfers: the Bonete wave is one of the most respected on the São Paulo coast.
Tips
- Take cash — there are no cash machines and no reliable signal.
- Sneakers for the trail, flip-flops for the village, repellent for everything.
- Book crossings and guided trails with the caiçaras themselves.
- Respect zero waste: what goes up with you comes down with you.
🥾 Who is it for?
Effort: intense on the trail (12 km of ups and downs); easy by boat (sea permitting). Children: by boat, from ages 5-6; on the trail, 12+ with the habit. Older travelers and reduced mobility: the boat makes the visit possible for those who will not face the trail — but you land on the sand, with help from the crew; the flat village and the slow pace are welcoming afterwards. A rough sea cancels crossings: keep your itinerary flexible.