All of Bonito’s magic is born in a mountain range — and the range has a name: Bodoquena. The small neighboring town, on the northern side of the Serra da Bodoquena National Park, holds the tallest waterfall in Mato Grosso do Sul, limestone rivers identical to the famous ones and a fraction of the tourists. For the ecotourist who likes to arrive before the crowd, this is the other side of the region.
Where it is and how to get there
Bodoquena is about 70 km from Bonito and 260 km from Campo Grande. You can stay there — simple guesthouses at R$ 120-250, far cheaper than Bonito — or visit the attractions as a day trip from Bonito. The road crosses the range past cerrado viewpoints and limestone walls.
What to do
- Boca da Onça — the flagship: a trail with more than ten waterfalls ending at the 156 m drop, the tallest in Mato Grosso do Sul, plus the highest platform rappel in Brazil. It deserves its own page: Boca da Onça in detail.
- Rio Betione — snorkeling in transparent limestone water, the quiet (and cheaper) version of the region’s famous rivers.
- Rio Salobrinha river beaches and nearby waterfalls — turquoise pools on farms with modest entrance fees.
- Serra da Bodoquena National Park — the protected area that shelters the springs of the whole region; visitation is still restricted, but it is the reason Bonito’s rivers are still crystal clear. Environmental education at landscape scale.
When to go and what it costs
| Item | Price (2026) |
|---|---|
| Boca da Onça (full trail with lunch) | ~R$ 700 |
| Boca da Onça rappel (combo) | ~R$ 800 – R$ 1,100 |
| Rio Betione snorkeling | ~R$ 250 – R$ 350 |
| River beaches and smaller waterfalls | R$ 30 – R$ 80 |
| Guesthouses in Bodoquena | R$ 120 – R$ 250 a night |
Bodoquena, Bonito and Jardim form the complete triangle of the Serra — three bases, three styles, the same crystal-clear rivers.
🥾 Who is it for?
Effort: moderate — trails, stairways and river beaches at the foot of the range. Children: from age 6 at the river beaches; the longer trails from age 10. Older travelers and people with reduced mobility: the easy-access river beaches are the right way in; long stairways demand knees in good shape.
