Few places pack this much Brazil onto a single plateau: in the Serra da Canastra, in southwestern Minas Gerais, the São Francisco River is born, the monumental Casca d’Anta plunges, the maned wolf trots at dusk — and the country’s most awarded artisanal cheese ripens. A 200,000-hectare national park created in 1972, surrounded by dirt roads and Minas hospitality.
How to get there
The classic base is São Roque de Minas (~330 km from Belo Horizonte, ~400 km from São Paulo), with Vargem Bonita serving the lower section and Sacramento/Delfinópolis the west side. In and around the park, the local language is the dirt road: a high-clearance car helps a lot, and a 4×4 gives total freedom. Take it slow — the gates and the views demand constant stops.
Upper section: the cradle of the Velho Chico
Through the São Roque gate, the high plateau opens up: the historic source of the São Francisco (a crystal trickle that becomes a nation-river), the view of Casca d’Anta from above, the Garagem de Pedras and horizons of golden grass where maned wolves, rheas, anteaters and deer live. Late afternoon is the magic hour — and the most likely time for a maned wolf to cross the road.
Lower section: the water cathedral
Via Vargem Bonita/São José do Barreiro you reach the base of Casca d’Anta, 186 meters of freefall — the São Francisco’s first great waterfall and one of Brazil’s most imposing. Trail, pool and viewpoints detailed in the Casca d’Anta and source article.
The cheese route
No visit is complete without the artisanal cheese farms — century-old fazendas where Canastra Cheese (Geographical Indication, world awards) is born from raw milk and the pingo starter. The full farm route, tastings and shopping live in the Canastra cheese route article.
When to go and costs
May to September: dry season, clear skies and firm roads (cold nights!). Summer rains muddy the access roads but double the waterfalls. Gates open 8am to 6pm, with entry until 4pm; the entrance fee is momentarily suspended (ICMBio Operational Protocol No. 01/2026), except at the Paraíso Complex in Delfinópolis — confirm the current rules before you go. Set aside 3-4 days: the upper section, the lower section and the cheese don’t fit in less.
🥾 Who is it for?
Effort: light in the upper section (viewpoints and the source are steps from the car); moderate on the trail to the base of Casca d’Anta. Children: a great destination from age 5-6 — wildlife, waterfalls and cheese please every age. Seniors and reduced mobility: the upper section is very accessible (the source has a short boardwalk) and the cheese farms welcome everyone; the trail to the waterfall base demands steady footing — the lower viewpoint is the middle ground.
