On the northern coast of Rio Grande do Sul, hidden between the sea and the range, the Vale do Maquiné holds one of the best-preserved stretches of Atlantic Forest in the state. This is where the historic Serra do Umbu runs, an old road that linked the highlands to the coast and that today draws ecotourists in search of waterfalls, trails and a rural pace of life that has all but vanished from the map.
Where it is and how to get there
Maquiné is about 130 km from Porto Alegre, via the BR-290 and then the BR-101, shortly before Osório. Access to the valley is by the RS-407, which follows the Rio Maquiné up into the range. From the town center, dirt roads lead to the rural communities and the natural attractions — an ordinary car copes for most of the year, but after heavy rain it is worth asking residents about conditions.
What the Serra do Umbu is
The Serra do Umbu is an old route that climbed the escarpment linking the Vale do Maquiné to the fields above. Today the way is sought out by walkers and mountain cyclists who take on the steep climb through the forest, with views opening onto the valley and, on clear days, as far as the line of the sea. It is not an organized outing: expect no ticket office, no abundant signage and no support along the way. Hiring a local guide is the safest way to get to know the region — and it helps the communities’ economy.
Waterfalls and river swimming
The Rio Maquiné and its tributaries form pools and falls all along the valley. Many swimming spots are on private land, with access for a small fee or a purchase — always ask before going in. The water comes down cold from the range even in summer, and the rocks can be slippery: footwear with good grip makes a difference.
Protected nature
The valley is part of the Atlantic Forest Biosphere Reserve recognized by UNESCO, and shelters threatened species on its forested slopes. The region is also known for a strong agroecology presence: smallholdings produce bananas, vegetables and native fruits such as butiá and araçá, often sold at the roadside. Taking your rubbish back with you and respecting gates and fences is the basic rule here.
🥾 Who is it for?
River swimming and outings around the valley: an easy activity, good for families with children from age 4 (always with supervision in the water) and for older visitors with mobility intact — the access paths tend to be short, but on uneven ground. Climbing the Serra do Umbu on foot or by bike: an intense activity, recommended for those already in condition and for teenagers from age 14 who are used to trails, and not suitable for people with reduced mobility. The valley’s rural infrastructure still offers little adaptation for people with disabilities — it is worth contacting local guesthouses in advance to check conditions.
Practical tips
The best time runs from spring to fall, when the days are longer and river swimming more inviting. Bring cash: mobile signal and card machines fail in the more remote areas. Accommodation is simple and charming — rural guesthouses and family campsites. Combine the visit with the beaches of Osório and Torres, less than an hour away by car, to put mountains and sea in the same trip.