From above, the bay of Castelhanos draws a heart — and those who cross the 22 km of dirt road that separate the beach from the tarmac of Ilhabela usually come away in love too. It is the island’s largest beach, open to the ocean, with a caiçara village, respectable waves and that good feeling of the end of the world a few hours from São Paulo.
The crossing
The road cuts through the Parque Estadual de Ilhabela inside the forest — only accredited 4×4 vehicles (jeeps and agency 4x4s, R$ 150-250 per person with stops) or boats going round the island get in. Along the way there is the heart viewpoint, giant bromeliads and, after recent rain, waterfalls springing from the banks. The crossing is half the trip: a hard seat, dust or mud, laughter guaranteed.
On the beach
Kilometers of sand with coconut and almond trees, an open sea of real force (surfers love it; families stay in the corner by the river), caiçara restaurants serving the catch of the day and azul-marinho — the island’s signature dish. Those who want more walk 40 minutes to Praia do Gato, a deserted gem at the southern tip of the bay. Overnight stays at campsites and caiçara guest rooms turn the day trip into immersion.
Tips
- An early start (7am-8am) gives you an empty beach and a return with daylight.
- Heavy rain closes the road — check with the agency the day before.
- Cash for the caiçara lunch; mobile signal is a rarity.
- No rubbish left behind and no drones over the village without permission.
🥾 Who is it for?
Effort: easy — the 4×4 does the work; the beach is a matter of arriving and enjoying (the walk to the Gato is optional and moderate). Children: from ages 5-6 they enjoy the jeep adventure; in the sea, always the corner by the river. Older travelers and reduced mobility: the crossing is a shaking one — a sensitive back deserves a conversation with the agency beforehand (front seats help); on the beach, the restaurants are close to where you are dropped off. A gentler alternative: arrive by boat on a day with a calm sea.